After spending the weekend in St. Louis, I have to say that my opinion has changed. I no longer think that St. Louis is an “armpit of the US”. Could I live in St. Louis? Not in this lifetime, however as a place to see for a weekend or two weekends, it is definitely somewhere worth visiting. 

St. Louis is not a big city but a car is absolutely essential as the Metrolink, while somewhat convenient, doesn’t offer the access to all the attractions. Additionally, if no one ever mentioned this … summers in St. Louis are absolutely brutal. This was past weekend downtown was stiflingly hot … the combination of high humidity off the river, the concrete jungle that is St. Louis and unsheltered sunshine make for an unbearable combination. Lesson = rent a car with a good A/C system.

As for what to do in St. Louis … If you’re staying downtown (I really recommend the Hilton Ballpark hotel … we had a phenomenal suite overlooking the ballpark … if only the Cardinals were playing at night), there are only two absolute “must do” things …

  1. Tour of Anheuser-Busch
    From the hotel, the brewery is about a 8$ cab ride, parking is free and the tour is free. All an excellent combination.

    Once you’re at the brewery, you have the option of taking the free tour along with Beer School ($10) … I suggest doing Beer School … for the diploma and the absolutely excellent professional beer opener that you get as a gift.

    Questions about Bud Beer School
    - Did I learn much in Beer School?  Absolutely not.
    - Were there multiple beer tastings? Yes there were.
    - Is it unlimited beer? Probably after the tour …
    - Are the Budweiser Clydesdales touring the property? Yes they are … and those are some well fed, well tendered horses.
    - Do they force Budweiser down your throat? Nope, although drinking a beer as tasteless, generic and insipid as Bud or Bud Light would require some force feeding anyway.
    - Will there be a chick in Beer School who says … ” All I drink is Bud, cause I don’t know better”? More than likely.

    The other thing that immediately strike you, is the size of the brewery. It is absolutely massive. It makes all the breweries I’ve seen in Canada, Trinidad, Germany etc look like playgrounds.

    If you do have to wait around for beer school or the brewery tour, I highly suggest grabbing some of the Jamaican Jerk wings at Sage. The food was excellent – really excellent. Best wings and pulled pork sandwich I’ve had in ages … and yes that is pepper bacon on top of pulled pork.


  2. The Arch and related places to see around the Arch.
    Not much to explain here. The Arch is there .. go see it.

St Louis weekend

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Updated (4th August, 2010)

St. Louis is not the world’s most exciting city and if I didn’t actually work here during the week, there would be no reason to visit. That being said, it’s not that St. Louis is devoid of culture, food and activities, it just that I can think of 10 more exciting cities in North America to visit before I would even consider St. Louis as a destination.

However, I’ve managed to put together my version of a very fun food/culture/music filled weekend in the “Lou”. Note here that this itinerary is my personal itinerary.

  • Thursday night:
    • Fly in Thursday night after 8pm, check into your hotel.
    • If you’re staying at the airport for the night, then Harrah’s Casino offers a free shuttle to all hotels within a 10 mile radius of the Casino. All you need to do is have your hotel call them and you’ll get a free bus ride there.
    • Grab a 15% off coupon and your coupon for $5 cash from the bus driver. options … and grab a meal there
    • If you’re downtown, then head out to the riverboats for dinner and some gambling
       
  • Friday :
    •  Breakfast at the hotel, I’m staying at the Hilton Ballpark – Downtown St. Louis (I highly recommend the Lobby Bar for drinks), then grab rental car. Ask for upgraded King room on the ball park side, if the Cardinals are playing that weekend.
    • Entertainment Options – in logical sightseeing order – look at the map above for a reference point. A Hop On/Hop Off  bus is probably the best bet for doing this itinerary, if you want to eat and relax with no driving.   
  1. If you’re staying at the Hilton Ballpark, then your first logical stop should be a tour of Busch Stadium, the first tour starts at 9.30am.
  2. The next logical destination should be to the Arch. It’s the symbol of St. Louis and the gateway to the Midwest. It does get a little cramped in there and the Arch Tour elevator isn’t the most comfortable thing for anyone who is claustrophobic.
  3. Once you’re done with the Arch, then walk over to the Historic Old Courthouse
  4. Then it’s time for lunch on the Arch Riverfront.
  5. Once you’re done with lunch, you have the option of the Cathedral Basilica of St Louis or heading over to the last tour of the Budwiser Brewery Tour, since it’s only open from 10am – 4pm
  6. Once you’re done, then it’s time for a nap and then off for dinner at Blueberry Hill
  7. Finally after dinner, go enjoy some Jazz at the Bistro
  • Saturday :
  • Sunday
    • Still no breakfast at this Hilton but rather Breakfast the Kaffee Haus at Schneithorst’s is said to be the best … with its completely German menu
    • Hopefully, there should be space for Chocolate at Bissinger’s French Confections. They are one of the last handcrafted chocolatiers in the world
    • After that heavy breakfast, head down the “Mother Road” down Route 66 to Ted Drewed Frozen Custard). This landmark custard stand is an icon along the original Route 66 sign and a St. Louis institution. Be sure to try the “concrete,” a milkshake so thick you can turn it upside down without spilling a delicious drop. Ted Drewes has been serving up ice cream treats to Route 66 travelers since the 1920s
    • Then head off the airport with a good taste of St. Louis in your mouth

Continue reading »

 

On my first trip to Mexico years ago, I remember my friends telling me that it was unsafe, full of drugs, hookers, bandits and that everyone would try to take my stuff at every turn. In Trinidad, the bandit copied the “Colombian” kidnapping habit, hence my Trini friends would tell me that they knew someone, who knew someone else who was kidnapped or murdered in Latin America, about how their favourite pastime ”is kidnapping tourists”. Of course, the media sensationalizes everything today and has a pesky habit of accentuating the negative aspects about different parts of the world.

It’s like when I go to US every other week to work. The average American client person thinks that Canada is cold all the time and that there are marauding polar bears everywhere and that we have rogue weekly avalanches  – I’ve never seen a Polar Bear outside of the zoo … but it is about what generalizations will spread.  As ridiculous as some of the assumptions people have about parts of the world, there are some very simple things we can do to ensure that we don’t become a part of other people’s stories.  Here are my quick tips to traveling safely in the Latin America or even in Trinidad – but they are applicable generally everywhere.

  1. Take the taxi around – they’re cheap, especially if you can haggle!
    During the day, I am usually pretty confident about just walking around, however at night, taking a recognized taxi is always the safer approach. For instance, In Buenos Aires, I walked around as much as I could, especially since taxis are a chore but at night I always took a taxi. In Rio … I always took a taxi, even in the day… Rio is rough … ! In Morocco, I had the best tour of Fez ever for a couple dollars. Although it might seem like overkill at times, especially if your hostel or hotel is just blocks away, taxis generally are much safer than walking, above all at night.  We hear horror stories all the time about taxis taking people for all they have, but in reality this is a rarity.  If you want to be extra careful, have the bar call a certified taxi and make sure you are not alone. We all know the stories where drunk tourist decided to walk .. got robbed and lost hundreds of dollars/cameras/shoes etc … when they could have spent 2.50$ a person and gotten home safely.

  2. Spread the money around … your body
    Simple and easy tip, yet I read travel forums and horror stories all the time about people being robbed of everything and their religion. Don’t keep all your money in one place. Do however keep “enough” money, in case you ever get robbed … hence walking with 20 pesos in Mexico per pocket is stupid … if you do get robbed, handing over only 20 pesos will get you beaten up plus robbed, and probably strip searched by your potential bandits.

  3. Always keep a copy of your passport and never your actual passport
    When traveling to a foreign country, especially one where you don’t speak the language, never take your passport along with you. Have multiple photocopies and scan a high resolution copy and email it to yourself, in case you lose your copies.

    Repeat after me : Your passport is your life. Say it 100 times. Losing your passport in a foreign country, is akin to you being in a non fatal car crash. It’s serious, stays on your record if your embassy has to get involved and will absolutely RUIN your trip. Photocopies will quickly prove who you are, and get you back on the road quickly. Plus in some parts of Latin America, it is the law to at least have a photocopy.

  4. Walk it, like you invented it
    Do you ever question a guy who said he invented something? Nope .. why? Cause he said so. When going to anywhere new, act like you’ve been there before and walk with confidence. This is a difficult trick to master for the inexperienced traveler – it only comes with experience and that certain “screw you” attitude that some people naturally have.If you stand around looking like a hyper-vigilant, paranoid tourist; then you will be treated like one. Do you see locals staring around? No .. cause they know what they are doing … even if you have no clue where you are going … you can always simply ask to get to somewhere interesting. I’ve done it enough times and it’s worked 100% of the time for me.   


  5. Talk to the locals
    They know where to go and where not to go … simple, easy … now write that down <scribble> “Talk to locals .. check!”  The locals are hidden in this picture!

  6. Don’t fall asleep on buses … unless …You’re at the back of the bus, by yourself.
    I’ve met too many people who lost their stuff on the bus. Food, bags, shopping … all gone with a little nap.   
  7. Trust your insincts … if it doesn’t feel right, it isn’t right!
 

 

This little hidden gem in the depths of Scarborough was pretty hard to find. When I say hidden, it doesn’t show up on Google maps and the little strip mall where Silvie’s is located has no signage to indicate that Silvie’s is there.

Silvie’s is definitely not a high end establishment. Typical West Indian roti shop, with spartan walls, a couple Soca/Chutney flyers for upcoming concerts and hand written menu on the wall.

Cultural Note:
One thing that will be strange to non “Trinis” will be the act of asking if they have something. Hence if they have doubles and Curried  Beef on the menu, it doesn’t necessarily mean that they will have it on the menu. This is typical of West Indian places – just because something is written on the menu, doesn’t mean that it is actually going to be served that day. Get in the habit of asking if something is available without any actual assumption of availability.

In true West Indian style … the Sunday special of Salted fish with Tomatoes was not available … on a goddamn SUNDAY!! (see bottom right hand side of the picture for Sunday’s specials)

The general details : There isn’t a high number of vegetarian options – I would attribute this to low turnover. As Silvie’s is a bit hidden away, it doesn’t have the popularity of a Mona’s or Barb’s .. but for a Guyanese owned roti shop, it definitely has a very tasty roti and curry. There is a small menu, which is a good sign, since there doesn’t seem to be a huge level of foot traffic – so they would cook and make everything daily. The customer service was very good and Silvie’s Trini friend who was at the counter was friendly and chatty, yet once she served us, she didn’t linger on the front – this I like, since it is typical of what you would get in Trinidad. People lingering around you, construes eavesdropping. They also provided knives and forks – I’m not impressed by this, since roti is hand food – but my partner was impressed – hence it rates a mention. There is a table and a counter to eat at and enjoy your roti on the spot. On particular impressive item was the COLD Sodas.

Roti is something that requires a really, really cold soda (Red or Banana Solo preferably). At most roti shops in Toronto, they will serve a pathetic, half-assed bottle of soda. It’s as though owners think we don’t notice these things. I absolutely hate a semi-cold bottle of soda with my roti – in fact, it will affect my enjoyment and decrease a ranking by 10 points. At Silvie’s, you can get fresh mauby or sorrel (“beastly cold” … to the point that there is ice in the drink) or a soda (again really, really cold). 

1. Roti: (37/45 points)

On our visit, we found that the roti skin was freshly made and more importantly, tasted like it was freshly made. Unlike other places, it didn’t reek of unwrapped plastic or other foreign scents. The roti skin was large and allowed typical eating i.e. opening out the roti skin and breaking off pieces from the outside to sop up the tasty curry inside.

However, the roti skin did show one mark of heavy handedness, and this would probably have to do with a Guyanese woman making the roti skin versus a Trini woman making the roti skin, since it is something I have noticed. The overall roti skin was bit thicker than normal and unevenly cooked in places, but this was to compensate for the over filling of the roti skin with split peas.

The quantity of ground split peas left over after eating the roti skin (shown above) is far too much and while some diners might like the extra split peas, it doesn’t add to overall flavour of the roti skin. This would be something that Silvie should fix – add less split peas and gain more in terms of a thinner, silkier roti skin.

2. Curry: (46/55 points)

We sampled a chicken and a beef roti and both were extremely good. Our visits were around lunch time on a weekend. As for the curried chicken/potato, the combination was good, the chicken was well cooked, with enough curry and colour to it.. The curried potatoes were decent with a balanced taste, consistency, it was not spicy at all, but it wasn’t bland either, with enough geera (cumin) in the curry mixture. Geera is essential in the curry powder mixture as it gives that warm, nutty flavour and aroma. This is a bit surprising to me, since Guyanese curry tends to be a lot heavier with too much geera and the addition of Garam Masala powder – which overpowers everything.

 The curried beef was excellent in that it had a balanced taste, hints of fresh seasoning (Culantro/Chadon Beni), good color and consistency. Even the cut of beef used in the curry was a good cut – not too stringy or fatty.  Both curries were heated up on the stove and served blisteringly hot – which is another excellent mark – something to look for. Overall, both the curries (chicken and beef) and potato were excellent.

3. Condiments: (10/20 points)

Trinidadian food is all about the condiments. The reason that doubles aren’t as good in Toronto, is simply because no doubles shop in Toronto will have 5 or more different chutneys (Hot Mango, Sweet Mango, Tamarind, Pommecythere, Chadon Beni aka Green sauce, Kutchela, etc) on demand.

Silvie’s has pepper sauce for roti, and I was offered without having to ask for it. However, as the shop is Guyanese owned, there was no kutchela (“Guyanese don’t have mango – only rice land -  so how will they know about Kutchela” not my words, but my Trini server’s words .. nuff said)

4. Overall: (18/20 points)

The overall presentation of the rotis that we got at Silvie’s was good. They serve a decent roti with a very tasty and excellent curry and good meat. If you don’t live in the east end (Scarborough and environs), it is a trek to get out to Silvie’s .. from my downtown-ish location, it was about 35 mins for a $6 dish. The bill for two people for two rotis and soft drinks (Diet Coke and Red Solo) was $15.09 – which is an excellent price point.

Hence a composite score of all factor, standardized to a score out of 100%

A score of 85% for a roti is excellent. Overall, this was much better than I expected. So it is definitely a recommendation if you’re looking for a excellent roti, that provides a bellyfull at a very reasonable price point. I would definitely go out of my way to try a beef or chicken roti then and I’m definitely going back to try the Shrimp roti, even though I am probably setting up myself for disappointment - Curried Shrimp is probably the most nuanced West Indian curry dish to make. Silvie’s is definitely “roti-run” approved!!!

  • Location: 2586 Birchmount Rd.,Toronto, Ont. M1T 2M5
  • Telephone: (416)-292-8779
  • Store Hours: MON - SAT 10:00am  – 9:00pm | SUN 11am – 3pm
  • Website : Silvie Roti Shop
  • External Reviews:
  •  

    In Downtown Toronto, finding a decent roti isn’t the easiest task ever. With the combination of higher rents, overhead costs, lower Trini populations (unlike the suburbs) and more food variety, it’s tough to keep your head above water. Danforth Roti Shop reminds me of “higher end” roti shops in Trinidad … in that there is cheap fluorescent lighting, hand written signs, yellowed advertisments and maps.

    Unlike more roti shops in Toronto, they don’t have a visible kitchen. This to me is a bit of a pet peeve, since I like to see what people are doing with my roti. In fact, Trinis in general like to see what is being done with their food – blame a culture of Indian and African superstition – there are many superstitions around black magic and food, but that is another article.

    Danforth Roti Shop on Restaurantica

    As usual for more details on the overall criteria and scale, please see this post.

    The general details : There are a number of vegetarian options but ask what is fresh for the day. They have a rather large menu, which is a good sign, but I always question the freshness of the food, since there doesn’t seem to be a huge level of foot traffic. The customer service was pleasant, and once they served us, the counter staff didn’t linger on the front – this I like, since it is typical of what you would get in Trinidad. People lingering around you, construes eavesdropping. They also provided knives and forks – I’m not impressed by this, since roti is hand food – but my partner was impressed – hence it rates a mention. While there is a table and a counter to eat at, this is primarily a take out establishment, like most roti shops in Toronto.

    1. Roti: (37/45 points)

    On our visit, we found that the roti skin was freshly made and more importantly, tasted like it was freshly made. Unlike other places, it didn’t reek of unwrapped plastic or other foreign scents. The roti skin was huge and allowed typical eating i.e. opening out the roti skin and breaking off pieces from the outside to sop up the tasty curry inside.

    Overall the roti was larger than average, decently made split peas inside, cooked evenly and quite thin. The only main issue was that the roti was served at a lukewarm temperature. Also notice the “Banana Solo”, a Trini soft drink – always a good sign for any roti shop.

    2. Curry: (38/55 points)

    We sampled two chicken rotis and it was decent. Our visits were around lunch time on a weekend. As for the curried chicken/potato, both were decent and tasty. The curried potatoes were decent with a balanced taste, consistency, however it was extremely bland to both reviewers and there was too much geera (cumin) in the curry mixture. Geera is essential in the curry powder mixture as it gives that warm, nutty flavour and aroma.

    The curried chicken was also quite average, in that it had a balanced taste, hints of fresh seasoning (Culantro/Chadon Beni), good color and consistency,  and the same complaint about the curry was being “raw” on the meat, hinting that the curry powder itself wasn’t cooked enough prior to the chicken being introduced or that there was just too much curry powder in the mix.  Another peeve is that both curries were lukewarm after being served which is a major negative. There is no Trinidadian that would like a warm or cold curry with roti, so why serve it to the public. Overall, it was a decent curry.

    3. Condiments: (7/20 points)

    Trinidadian food is all about the condiments. The reason that doubles aren’t as good in Toronto, is simply because no doubles shop in Toronto will have 5 or more different chutneys (Hot Mango, Sweet Mango, Tamarind, Pommecythere, Chadon Beni aka Green sauce, Kutchela, etc) on demand.

    Danforth’s has kutchela and pepper sauce for roti, but they don’t offer it unless you know about it and ask for it. Obviously, if a roti shop sells doubles/pholourie, then they will usually have some type of chutney, but without offering it as standard fare, then it is useless. So in that manner, they lose points even though they have more condiments than the average Toronto Roti Shop

    4. Overall: (20/20 points)

    The overall presentation of the rotis that we got at Danforth’s was good. They serve a huge, well filled roti with a decent curry and decent meat. It is also a downtown establishment that charges a very fair price for a decent roti, unlike other downtown locations.

    Hence a composite score of all factor, standardized to a score out of 100%

    A score of 79% for a roti is a good score but the score is a bit skewed lower because they didn’t offer the condiments as standard. Overall, for a downtown location, this is much better than I would expect. So it is definitely a recommendation if you’re looking for a decent roti, that will fill a small country with decent curry. Would I go out of my way for Danforth’s Roti … probably not. However as it is downtown and convenient, I would definitely go back to try other things on their menu and probable another roti.

    • Location: 2844 Danforth Avenue, Toronto, ON M4C 1M1
    • Telephone: (416) 690-1308
    • Store Hours: MON - SAT 11:00am  – 8:00pm
    • Website : None
    • External Reviews: Danforth Roti Shop on Restaurantica
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