Sometimes we pick up travel magazines and they paint these wondrous images in our minds of far off exotic places all drenched in mysticism and light. So for instance, while on my way to meet Diane tonight in Halifax, I pick up the Travel & Leisure magazine and I read about one of the trips that they describe as one of the 20 trips you will never forget.

It described the Kbal Spean, commonly known as the valley of a 1000 Lingas, as this wondrous place set deep in the jungle to the north east of Angkor. Well it took us about an hour (very steep walk by the way) in the rain to get to the river and waterfalls  where hundreds of phalluses are carved on the riverbed.

Now the thing is that described this journey and the carvings in great detail .. so that there are:

• Shiva and Parvati on Nandi. The lingas are carved underwater in front of them.
  
• Brahma underwater.
  
• Reclining Vishnu with lingas in front
  
• River of a thousand lingas.
  
• Reverse reclining Vishnu with Shiva-linga in front.
  

Now I think to myself.. as someone who is educated and somewhat worldly, I should appreciate these carvings and what they are and blah blah… but like going to the Sistine Chapel, I was seriously underwhelmed. As much as I was overwhelmed by Angkor Wat and all the temples, I guess by the time I got to Kbal Spean, I was completely templed-out, hence it might not have made the impression it should have. However, other place have completely underwhelmed me, when you think about the glowing articles and pictures you see of certain places, while other places have actually surprised me with how much they affected me. The prime example of this would be the Leaning Tower of Pisa; it really is just a Tower with columns around it, that started to sink. However, getting there and seeing the Tower in its 3-D magnificence really was a highlight of my Italian trips, go figure.

Point is that the more I see, the more jaded I become about these “recommendations” and “reviews”, but it does take some travelling to come to this type of conclusion. So tonight, as I head to Halifax, I’m going to hope that the weather is great and I get some great shots, but more importantly I have a good sociable time, eat some great lobster and not be underwhelmed. I think, I won’t be disappointed though, since there was no goddamn Travel & Leisure article to spoil my trip.

© rishiray for Rishi Sankar: Ah Trini Travelogue / Ah Trini Traveller, 2008. | Permalink | One comment | Add to del.icio.us
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It has been a long hot day. Tara and I had to take a break back at the hotel in order to recharge for our journey to the highlight of our Cambodian sidetrip: Angkor Wat. After a long day of going through the temples within Siam Reap, nothing really prepares you for the magnificence and opulence of Angkor Wat. There is a reason why the Cambodian Government put this wonder on their flag to represent the people. One could write for days about visiting the ruins, but instead, I think that pictures really do tell a story.

Finally after all the climbing and photographing, it was time for some traditional Khmer food, and our taxi driver took us to one of his favorite places on the main drag. For the life of me, I really can’t remember the name of the place but I do know what it looked like at night.

Photolog : http://rishiray.smugmug.com/gallery/3211472_yyuTv#177265658_whstz

© rishiray for Rishi Sankar: Ah Trini Travelogue / Ah Trini Traveller, 2007. | Permalink | One comment | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Angkor Wat, Angor Wat, pictures of Angkor Wat, Pictures of Siam Reap

So after getting into Siam Reap from Hong Kong, we checked into the Le Meridien Angkor Wat. The transport to the hotel in taxi was 7 USD and takes about 20-30 minutes. The hotel seems to be brand new and the welcoming was great. We were greeted and asked to sit down in a sofa. After handing over the passport and the credit card we got a cold cloth and a welcome drink and we didn’t even have time to finish the drinks before the papers were ready and we could be escorted to our room. The reception is very nice and stylish by the way, high ceilings, minimalistic but still not naked.

The hotel experience was definitely one of the best I have ever had. It really set the tone for all the hotels in Asia we went to. Definitely the hotel experiences I had in Asia far surpass those I have had in Europe and the Americas (Well Mexico is an exception). I think in North America, hotels don’t treat their guests as they should be treated and we are definitely not as valued (perceptually of course).

The pool area was inspired by Angkor Wat and looked great but it is not ideal if you want to use the pool for working out. It was also a bit on the warm side – believe it or not. It is also out of the main building so it is a bit of a walk to get there. Location of the hotel is not too bad. It is located on the way out of Siem Reap towards Angkor Wat. Getting around was not a problem as there were tuk-tuk’s available at any given time and getting into Old Market only took 5 minutes and cost 2 USD.  Some tips on a good temple experience:

Tip #1: When getting going to the temples, it is absolutely essential to find a reliable driver that will take you around and wait on you – the temples are not walking distance from anywhere, no matter what some people will tell you. However one secures the services of a driver is completely arbitrary, but it is essential. Relying on tuk-tuk drivers might be the forte of some, but I like air-conditioning in the middle of a jungle. A driver and car for the day, will set you back 15-20 USD, depending on one’s negotiating skills … book two days and one can easily say $25 USD with breakfast and lunch for your driver. It sounds expensive, but after two days in the sweltering heat, it will seem like a god send.

Tip #2 : Get an umbrella. Period … no discussion necessary. Oh yeah … it’s not for the rain!

Tip #3 : Don’t ignore the children who are selling stuff. Buy a trinket or two, and you could end up with some valuable tips on the town or where to go next. Additionally, if the kids say “Later” and you don’t intend to buy anything, firmly say “Not later” … the kids remember you and when you come back, the guilt and sap become even thicker. The children and parents have a very tough life, they are accustomed to rejection, be honest and they’ll be honest.

Tip #4 : If your hotel has free water and pop, obviously stock up your daypack with them. It will save you money and save you from having to haggle with any vendors. Most people are not prepared for the kids, vendors and hawkers to surround you when you want to buy something. 

Tip #5 : Avoid tour buses carrying Japanese tourists at all costs. They are annoying for the following reasons :

• They all take exactly the same pictures with the same poses - like robots.
• They are inconsiderate to anyone else trying to take a picture
• They are on limited time, so their tour leaders try to cram as many sights into the journey and the processions can be endless.
• Group tourists are annoying by nature <insert snob factor>, notice the huge group in the background below.

Tip #6 : Go for lunch with your driver. Simple common sense – they know where to go, and where the food is good.

Tip #7 : Ensure that you have extra batteries or chargers for you camera. The shooting is non-stop, although most pictures might not be post worthy, one never wants to be out of charge for that one great shot!

Tip #8 : If you don’t have a spare page in your passport for the Cambodian visa, don’t despair. You can get a temporary visa to insert into your passport for $10 extra.

Tip #9 : Angkor Wat and the temples is not a one day trip. Budget two full days at least, especially if you are doing the less known temples of Beng Mealea and Koh Ker 

Tip #10 : Don’t accept any guide services or advice when at the temples, without the understanding that you’re going to be pestered for a couple dollars at the end – even asking a question, will elicit a request.

Useful resources:

• Cambodia planning 

© rishiray for Rishi Sankar: Ah Trini Travelogue / Ah Trini Traveller, 2007. | Permalink | No comment | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Angkor Wat, blogsherpa, Cambodia, finding a driver in angkor wat, Siam Reap, tips for enjoying siam reap