Dec 012010
 

There are very few things that will drive people in Montreal to violence …for instance, saying one of the following  in Montreal will almost surely lead to a “Big Momma Beat Down”

  • Saying that the Toronto Maple Leafs are better than Les Canadiens
  • Saying that Toronto or Parisian Bagels are better than the Montreal version.
  • Wondering in public, how the hell is “poutine” not a registered food group
  • Saying/thinking/implying that there is a better “Shish Taouk” sandwich anywhere than the version that’s inhaled on a daily basis in Montreal.

I for one believe after 12+ years in Canada, 60+ countries of eating strange and insane foods, there is no better fast food chicken sandwich in the world than the ones you can get in Montreal. The same way I believe that there is on better fast food fish sandwich than Bake and Shark in Maracas Bay, Trinidad.

In Montreal, there are three brand name contenders for this honor :

In fact, there is a facebook group called “Instead of Having a Cigarette after Sex, I have Sex after Boustan!” After these three brand names, there’s really a bunch of individual “Shish Taouk” vendors, who also have decent or good “Shish Taouk”. In addition, to the discussion, there is even questions about what to call the damn chicken sandwiches … I’ve gone to Israel to ask for a “Shish Taouk”, only to be told it was a “Chicken Shawarma” that I was looking for.

Imad Smaidi, the normally genial proprietor of the downtown Lebanese restaurant Boustan, veritably bristles at the mention that his shish taouk is considered by many to be the best in the city. It’s not the rating that irks Smaidi. It’s the appellation.

“Please,” he implores. “Call it its true name: chicken shawarma. This has gone on too long.”  The whole article can be found on Canada.com

Does that stop the “Shish” machine? Nope … it will always be a “Shish Taouk” to me.

As for finding “Shish Taouk” in Toronto – don’t bother, it’s horrible and pathetic. I’ve tried looking for years and there is really no comparison, so don’t bother. Toronto shawarma places are not Lebanese operated. It is possible to find better “Shish Taouk” in Ottawa, but if you’re going to Ottawa to find it, you might as well drive along to Montreal and get the real deal.

The best Shish Taouk places in Montreal are:

  1. Abu Elias on Cote Vertu in Ville St-Laurent
  2. Boustans is the best downtown – no exceptions (Amir’s on Crescent St. used to be phenomenal, but then the whole McDonaldization of Amir, merely lends itself to being average). Below is the famous trio (Shish Taouk Sandwich, Garlic Potatoes with extra garlic sauce, grilled eggplant, pickled turnips and hummus.)


Places like Basha and Amir are good but they are not the best. They’ve becom the McDonalds of Lebanese fast food, though still good but not nearly the best.

One can also ask the question, “Is Shish Taouk, all you can get in Montreal?” … obviously not …  one can find all the familiar Lebanese/Middle Eastern staples (Merguez, Falafel, Brochettes, Fatouche, Taboule, Humus, Shawarma, Shish Taouk, etc)

As for authentic  Lebanese cuisine in Montreal (outside of Shish Taouk), a good selection list would be the following:

  • La Sirene de le Mer (Good Lebanese seafood restaurants)
  • Restaurant Daou (More Lebanese good cooking)
  • Restaurant Souwar (On Cote Vertu with a speciality in Lebanese & seafood)
  • Le Petit Alep (I’ve yet to figure out the difference in Syrian vs Lebanese food)
  • Nuits d’Orient Restaurant (Great Leb food in Laval, if you’re venturing that far outside)
Sep 292010
 

In all my traveling, I’ve heard of towns with somewhat peculiar names. In some cities, there are street names that are highly uninventive. For instance, if you go to Atlanta, GA and someone tell you that they’re on PeachTree, be absolutely sure that that you have a GPS and they give you the exact latitude and longitude; there are 71 streets with the word “PeachTree” in them.

In Phoenix, AZ, there are over 30 completely different streets called “N. 38th Avenue.” Try using Google for ”North 38th Avenue, Phoenix, Arizona” and it will point to one of them (it seems to choose a random point on one of the N 38th Avenues just north on West Glendale Avenue.) Scroll north or south and you will find dozens more. In some cases, one of the North 38th Avenues comprises only a small part of the street, and spontaneously renames itself at one point. 

As for the town names, highlights would include

  • Hell in Michigan, USA. Hence you can actually go to Hell!!
  • Fucking, Austria
  • Disappointment, Kentucky
  • Shitterton, Dorset, England
  • Horneytown, North Carolina
  • Middelfart, Denmark
  • Toad Suck, Arkansas
  • Hookersville, West Virginia
  • Whiskey Dick Mountain, Washington
  • Cockup, Cumbria, England
  • Bald Knob, Arkansas
  • Spread Eagle, Wisconsin
  • Wetwang, Yorkshire, England
  • Gravesend, Kent, England
  • Thong, Kent, England
  • Titty Hill, Sussex, England
  • Looneyville, Texas
  • Muff, Ireland
  • Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauotamateapokaiwhenuakitanatahu, New Zealand
  • Twatt, Orkney, Shetland Islands, Scotland
  • Cockburn, Western Australia

However no other place on the planet seems to have crazier names for places than the province of Newfoundland & Labrador. Also I can’t think of a single place where I saw more lighthouses!

You can find places with crazy names like

  • Tickle Cove
  • Witless Bay
  • Conception Bay
  • Random
  • Blow me Down
  • Come by Chance
  • Quidi Vidi
  • and the king of them all … Dildo.

It’s not that anyone seems to be shy about using it; there is also South Dildo, Dildo Pond and Dildo Island. The name may have had its origins in the Spanish port of Bilbao, or it may come from the Portuguese, or the native Indians. But no one really knows and no one really cares. I’m sure the locals have heard it all. A while back, a proposal to change the town’s name was strongly voted down.

Signal Hill, Cape Spear | 2010 | 22nd August 2010

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View photos at SmugMug

Aug 212010
 

So you’re in Newfoundland, and a couple thoughts might pass through your head, such as

  • “Ok, I expect to have the best fish and chips around, since these people know their fish”
  • “I feel like scotch, since this place looks like what I imagined Wuthering Heights to look like when I was in my form 3 English Literature class”
  • “Am I in Scotland? I could sure use some scotch … preferably a dram or two of Bunnahabhain 25 Year Old
  • First passages of Hamlet …
  • What would Bilbo Baggins do on a hike over the hills here to Mordor?

Walking along the coast, with the water crashing on shore and a cold breeze passing over you, you can help but think about the storms to pass and how difficult life used to be.

Thinking about a bleak, dismal morning after a long night of fog horns and lighthouses …

At no point, was I thinking that I would be on the Irish loop, heading to Ferryland for the Lighthouse Picnic. If you’re heading out of St. Johns, having lunch by the lighthouse would be a worthwhile stop. You’re furnished with everything needed for a nice little picnic by the shore.  What makes this place incredible is its location and its concept.  You go into the lighthouse to order and then they give you a picnic blanket and a patterned flag that symbolizes your order.

The conversation goes something like this after

  • Me: “Where do we go?”
  • Them: “Anywhere…”
  • Me: “What do you mean?”
  • Them: “Go find a place.”
  • Me: “Anywhere?”
  • Them: “Yes” <insert their thought process … look ya dumb f##k … we’re in a lighthouse, and you’re by a cliff … go outside and stop asking dumb questions.>

Overall the process is like this …

  • You’re given blankets, one per couple, and feel free to pick your pied a terre for your picnic outside among the beautiful, rugged surroundings on lighthouse point.
  • The blankets are made specially made of a heavy fabric with tartan print and the bottom is covered in vinyl, so that it is easy to clean and doesn’t soak through. A small flag is also provided. You stick them in the ground next to your blanket so that the servers will know which group you are for serving purposes.
  • After walking around and taking the necessary pictures, the girls ended up with two picnic hampers containing a variety of scrumptious looking goodies.
  • All of the breads at Lighthouse Picnics are made daily on site. I peeked in, as they were being brought out of the kitchen and found the aroma of the beautiful, large loaves of foccacia and whole wheat bread to be intoxicating. It was like smelling the most wonderful perfume. Needless to say these breads made fabulous sandwiches. I tried a curried chicken salad on whole wheat made from fresh roasted chicken in a creamy but lightly seasoned curry dressing. It was a standard pedestrian curry spice but the whole assembly made a delicious sandwich.

Now I have to say, that as a Trinidadian … this whole idea of lighthouse picnics, craggy moors, crashing waves and thistle is pretty foreign to me. I mean going to Caura River in Central Trinidad is enough of a camping, picnic experience for me – however this isn’t the worst thing ever.

While in Ferryland, there is also some culture and history to take in. There are the ruins of the Colony of Avalon. I dont know why, but I just think about King Arthur, some knights on a square table and scotch wench. Anyway, most people have no idea that there was permanent European settlement in North America so far back, and that Newfoundland played such an important role. The Ferryland settlement was “forgotten”, and its remains lay undisturbed for centuries.

Cool as all this was, I was still on the hunt for fish and chips … and the general feedback was that we should head over to Ches’s.

By the way, after lunch, driving, scotch and fish and chips and learning that addresses in Ferryland use the alphanumerically lowest postal codes in Canada, starting with A0A

I’m still looking for ferries …

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