Mar 062010
 

Heading into the Ourika Valley is definitely a nice, short day trip from Marrakech. Like many other side trips from Marrakech, the scenery is spectacular and the contrasts are amazing. The Ourika Valley spreads between the first foothills of the Atlas Mountains, extending along the Wadi River. Despite it being so close to Marrakech, this beautiful green valley is one of the most pristine valleys in Morocco.

Now on this tour, the itinerary really includes the following

  • Coffee break at the tour bus company’s brother’s cafe
  • Picture stops where you will be hassled by the touts selling chains, trinkets and other pieces of crap. Yes, I got it, you’re poor and you sell to help yourselves. Great, but I don’t need more dogshit in my backpack, I have dirty drawers in there, but “Shukran” anyway.
  • Mint tea. Now anyone who is experienced in Morocco, knows that “Mint Tea” is free, but with it, comes the obligation to look at shit you don’t need. Looking is free, but if one recalls the expert Moroccan sales technique, see the Fassian carpet salesmen, you shouldn’t accept tea, unless you’re looking to buy stuff.
  • Lunch at another cousin’s restaurant
  • Finally, the waterfalls and browsing through the “Lovely Berber village”, which is nothing more than a glorified version of Laventille in Trinidad i.e. Slum!

But those aren’t the right questions to be asking when one is attempting to day trip from Marrakech to Ourika Valley. The questions that you should ask, should include the following:

  • What time does the bus leave? Between 9 and 9:45 am. Moroccan time is elastic time, do not expect to leave on time.
  • How long is the drive from Marrakech to Ourika Valley, EACH WAY? : About 1 – 1 1/2  hours.
  • Will you have to change buses? : No. One bus should take you there
  • If the bus is late, do I get a refund or apology? Fuck no, to both questions unless you start shaming people .. which I have no problem doing in public. See previous article …
  • Will I have a choice in seating? Hell no, unless you’re first on the bus or you politely suggest to the tour conductor that you will accept nothing but a front seat, by yourself.
  • Will there be stops for lunch? Absolutely but only at the pre-determined restaurant. I brought my own lunch, and I was ok. I did buy some tea and coke, to be polite for using their plates, cutlery and stealing some tea meant from some French people.
  • How much will it cost? If you book at your hotel, you will pay between 400 – 500 dirhams for this trip. If you walk into the souks, you can bargain and I paid 200 dirhams.

But the most important questions when taking this trip are:

  • Are the old people on this bus, aware that going to see the Waterfalls involves an uphill 30 min hike?
  • Are they aware that it is cold and their rheumatism might flare up?
  • Are they aware that there is snow feeding the river, and that snow is cold, and that is cold snow is feeding the river, then the water will be cold. If the water is cold, then the air will be cold … i.e. it is going to be cold. Are they aware?

Failure to ask these types of questions will result in serious rage, Wajang behaviour and possible death and dismemberment to drivers and maybe the old people on board.

Aside from the itinerary, the Ourika Valley is a lovely place to drive through and if the weather is great, there would some great photography available.

Mar 062010
 

I do crazy things all the time … or seemingly crazy things all the time, but crossing swinging bridges should really never be one of them

Note the gaps in the bridge and the “planks”

One could say that the Berbers cross these bridges all the time and that they never seem to be in mortal danger with these bridges or the fact the bridges don’t cause them stress. I’m not Berber, I’m a rather large Trini, whose  mountain goat skills are severely lacking.

Would you feel safe when you saw thin sticks of wood underfoot like this???

Would you???

Mar 062010
 

<Me … in full Wajang mode> What the hell is dis shit? Wha’ yuh mean that it cold, and the other people don’t wanna climb to the waterfall? Which part of my problem is dat? I paid for ah tour, and the highlight of today’s tour was climbing the waterfall, otherwise you all taking to me some shithole Berber village (something out of Laventille, really …), then attempting to take me to your brother restaurant for ah shitty tagine is not really fair and respectful to me. It ent my problem, your manager didn’t explain to the white people that the waterfall requires some flicking hiking … they think everything is convenient.

<interjects British guy> Hi there, I understand that you’re upset, but you can’t make 13 other people wait here, while you head up the waterfalls, it’s not fair to us either.

<me … changing back to Canadian accent> Hi there, I don’t really understand why you’re inserting yourself in this conversation. Are you the driver or the manager of the tour company? I didn’t think so … you have your viewpoint and I have mine. While you and your wife were making everyone else wait this morning, I didn’t complain. I didn’t complain when your wife bought extra herbs there from the vendor, I didn’t complain when your wife had a bad reaction to the vegetarian tagine … do you think no one else here understands English? This is for the driver and the tour manager to figure out, which they will.

I think it’s best you head back to the back of the bus, please and thanks.

<British guy> That’s a very inconsiderate and selfish view you have there.

<me … reverting back to wajang mode> That’s a very high maintenance wife you have … do you see me saying anything to you about it?

Part of traveling in Morocco is to get used to the time here and understand that the people here operate on “island time” just like Trinidad, except with one bad quality … their concept of “island time” also involves another Trinidadian concept called the “set up”. A “set up” is when someone fails to show up, is so late that you had to leave or promises something and fails to deliver as expected.

For the past three days, I have been the victim of “Island time” and a couple “Set ups”, and right now my patience is wearing very, very thin. Mix ups are part of traveling and dealing with your issues with grace and civility will work 98.9% of the time, however since this was the third set of mix-ups with this tour company, someone had to collect the “iron”.

However in Trinidad, lowering yourself to acting like this, is considered very bad form, but it is also considered necessary to get what you want/need/require when the powers that be, are ambivalent to your plight and issues. For a true expression of “Wajang” in Trinidad … one only needs to look at this video from Rachel Price. For a Trinidadian definition .. see here

Anyway, enough ranting, time for Casablanca.

Mar 042010
 
Gendarmes in Morocco don't react well to sarcasm ...

So another thing you learn in a Muslim country is that the appearance of doing something is as important as actually doing something. Hence one of the customs I knew about in Muslim countries is that taking pictures of the mosques and military establishments are prohibited. One has to ask permission to take pictures first [... Click here to keep on reading this article]

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