Feb 222010
 

There is a lot of romance associated with backpacking. Tons of stories of young adults who either just are in or just finished university, making their first backpacking trips across Europe. It’s become a right of passage and when joining the workforce, it gives those who’ve travelled, extra confidence that they know a bit of the world, since they had their 2 week “Contiki” experience, complete with drinking adventures with strangers who speak different languages and some pictures of the experience.

Europe, is of course the easiest and least challenging place to travel

  • Reliable rail/bus service
  • Porous borders once you’re actually in the EU
  • Interconnected routes
  • Cheap flights between destinations
  • Safe and good hostel network
  • Information booths at every airport, train station and city center

That being said, I have zero issues with “easy traveling”; I like the fact that I expect zero issues when travelling through Western Europe. It’s almost like travelling through Canada or the US, except with different languages. The more one travels, the more one realizes that we are inherently the same people. The food in different regions can be all very similar. For instance, if someone can prove to me that “Pelau” from Trinidad, “Rice Pilaf” in North America, “Paella” in Spain or “Biryani” in India/Pakistan are fundamentally different dishes, then I’ll become a vegetarian.

As one matures as a person and as a traveller, it is in our nature to increase the difficulty of the challenge, because natural habituation occurs. We seek to wander to more remote places, abandon the creature comforts we know, try truly exotic cuisine (Spicy fried crickets, or Hakarl – Rotting Shark.. anyone?) or some even go to the extreme of vagabonding or “Slow travel”.

Backpacking for extended periods of time, is challenging to the psyche and to the body, especially if you’re someone who doesn’t adapt well to unnatural/unfamiliar surroundings. Personally, when travelling to places where English is not the mother tongue, in a couple days/weeks one can become quite isolated in a sea of foreign tongues and customs. You find yourself gravitating to semi-familiar surroundings, hence why in Southern Spain, I prefer having Arabic food. I know the cuisine well (I know which items have dairy or not), I know enough Arabic words (not just “Sharmut/Sharmuta”) and customs to order and be friendly with the shop owners and I know it will be good. Arabs/Middle Easterners are always impressed when they find out I am from Trinidad, since I’m usually the first person from Trinidad, they’ve ever met. I’m peppered with questions about the geography, the race of the people, the language and what we actually do there for money. Invariably, they are always surprised that we have so much racial and cultural diversity in Trinidad. When I explain that we have our own version of Falafel (there is little difference between a “Kachorie or Saheena” and a Falafel … although the Syrian mafia in Trinidad, would have you believe differently).

Travelling can become costly and time consuming, which is why most people in North America give it up when they become part of the “rat race” because of a multitude of factors ranging from having only 2 or 3 weeks vacation, project deadlines, fear of traveling and just everyday life issues. Backpacking in hostels and “Couchsurfing” can easily remove a lot of costs associated with travel, but then that also means giving up our creature comfort of personal space, sharing with strangers and necessarily interacting at close quarters with unknown elements. All that being said, I feel better inside, when the pains in my shins and legs are from hiking  up Tibidabo or Montjucic rather than sitting at a desk all day and waiting for 5pm to arrive.

Feb 182010
 

For all the bad weather that I endured in Madrid earlier on, today’s weather at the top of Montserrat almost made up. The lighting and clarity was optimal for some great pictures.

One of the highlights from the Monastery is the spectacular vista, especially since everything around Montserrat is so flat.

One of the highlights of any visit to Montserrat is the Basilica and a visit to the Black Madonna. It is very popular among Catalans, and Catholic pilgrims come from far and wide to see the Black Madonna and the wonderful detail within the church.

It is one of the black Madonnas of Europe, hence its familiar Catalan name, la Moreneta (“The little dark-skinned one”). Believed by some to have been carved in Jerusalem in the early days of the church, it is a Romanesque sculpture in wood from the late 12th century. Legend has it that the Benedictine monks could not move the statue to construct their monastery, choosing to instead build around it. The statue’s sanctuary is located at the rear of the chapel, where an altar of gold surrounds the icon, and is now a site of pilgrimage.

The back of the Madonna is another chapel.

The detailing within the Basilica and outside of it, is a testament to Old World craftsmanship.

Feb 182010
 

I thought that getting from Barcelona to Montserrat for yet another day trip, that the whole thing would be a straight forward affair, but alas I am in Spain and I speak little Spanish, so nothing is every straightforward. Getting from Pep Ventura to Plaza Espana was easy enough but then trying to find the right train that takes you to Montserrat was a different story.

“Placa Espanya station is huge and has many surface entrances to the station below ground. It can be very confusing for tourists to find their way around especially as each entrance only has partial information about the lines that you will access from any particular entrance. The best advice here is just to ignore the line information displayed as you enter a surface entrance to the underground station and just enter the nearest surface entrance you can find. Once you are underground look for signs for the R5 Manresa track. You may have to walk around a little but you will find it eventually!”

You can get to the Monastery via a Cable car ride (AERI) or a train (Cremallera).

My aim was to take the Cable Car ride up to the Monastery and then back down on the train. It is very important to decide on your options,

  • Do you want the Cable Ride (Aeri ticket version) to the Monastery after the train journey from Barcelona  (Train Stop  is Montserrat AERI)
    OR
  • Do you want the Cremallera Funicular ride to the Monastery (Cremallera ticket version)  – (Train Stop is Montserrat de Monistrol)

Just to explain the train from Espanya station takes you to the foot of Montserrat mountain then you have these two options: Cable car or Cremallera Funicular to actually go up the mountain to the Monastery. One needs to get off the train at different stops depending on which one you decide to take.

This goal got derailed when I engaged in conversation on the train ride with an American by the name of Doug. The conversation was interesting but became more so when he scolded a Spaniard who was lit up in the train. The Spaniards’ response to his effort was a nice flick off and encouragement for his friend to light up also. Eventually, the effort required the conductor to intervene and stop the two smokers. An older Spanish woman was sitting next to us, and we thought she was being helpful in telling us the station to get off, even though I read the sign differently, we both listened to her, and ended up getting off at the wrong station. My stop was the Montserrat AERI and he was supposed to get off at Monistrol but I got off at Monistrol and obviously he ended up going even farther along.

Having been left at the Monistrol station by myself, I had free rein of the place for a while. The conductor left the station and went home for 25 mins in a truly Trinidadian move. The other curious sight was a working coal fired train going to another town from Monistrol. It’s the first time in a long time that I’ve seen a coal fired train.

The moral of the story : Know that there are two options for getting up to Montserrat. Pick your options and the rest should be easy after that.

Feb 172010
 
Is a Spain/Portugal rail pass worth it for Canadians?

See update 16th March 2010 at the end…. This is a question, I get a lot on forums or even from friends who are thinking about Europe, so I thought I would answer it. This is the 5th time that I am using a Eurail pass. My present pass is a first class (preferente) Spain/Portugal [... Click here to keep on reading this article]

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