Someone just asked me what does one do at night in Puerto Iguazu? Like most places that is situated close to the jungle, there isn’t a ton of things to do? Pffffffttt yeah right!! I was amazed at the fact that on a Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday night there were bars that were open to 5 or 6am. It really makes Toronto look damn shameful, well in fact most North American cities are pretty shameful in this respect, with all our liquor laws and zoning regulations. Of course, one can argue that with the insurance rates, drunk driving, alcohol abuse etc blah blah, that we should have all these laws to keep us safe. Of course, the whole safety thing is just an illusion anyway, closing bars at 2am doesn’t stop drunk driving, it encourages binge drinking .. take a look at the UK for examples on binge drinking. I digress, this is a travel post, not a political waste of time.

The first thing about hanging out in Puerto Iguazu at night, is to never stay at the Sheraton! It is a great hotel, and wonderful if you want to see the falls and have all the conveniences of a modern hotel in the jungle. That being said, the food is decent but nothing comparable to the quality of the food that you will have in the town. The Sheraton’s cuisine is catered for the baseline affluent white tourist – of course absolutely nothing is wrong with this. One pays for consistency across the world and the Sheraton delivers consistently! That being said, the prices of food are stupendous in comparison for food in town. Bife de Chorizo is Bife de Chorizo regardless of whether it is at the Sheraton or at La Mujerda or Color Parilla Pizza, and paying 40USD for a steak vs 9 USD for a steak of similar quality is a bit of a rip off, especially in Argentina.

However, if you want to eat fantastic meals at night, with music and good wine for ridiculously cut rate prices, then I would recommend that one stay in Puerto Iguazu. There are a number of great hostels and medium range hotels in town itself. If I did this trip again, and I didn’t have the hotel points from work, then I would surely stay in town.

Places to eat .. well I can only recommend Color Parilla Pizza and La Mujerda, which are decent places by any standard. The food quality and service at these places is definitely high end.

The train station is also a place to grab food in evening, the pastas are all cheap ($5 CDN) for a plate of Spaghetti Bolognese sin Manteca :) and a soda. So a great deal there, or one could go to any nearby empanada place and grab a fist full of empanadas @ 2 pesos each (.60 cents CDN) … for me, 7 plus a soda was a bellyful, regular people should be fine with 3 :)

After eating at one of the local joints, you can have two options for nightlife… you can go drinking in the local bars which are all open till dawn or hit the casinos :)

 

In our everyday passages, we spout idioms and cliches;
“It is, what it is”,
“It’ll work out for the best”,
blah blah blah, thinking that sometimes a misstep or misadventure will some how work out for and have a completely positive result. I typically find that one must set and put things in motion for positive results to occur.

Tonight, was one of those mythical nights where good things came out of a complete mistake. After running around the jungle photographing everything in sight, I was starving and had no intention of dining at the Sheraton, with its overpriced buffet. So I thought that I would grab the 5 peso bus into Puerto Iguazu, get a couple snacks and meet up with David and his mother for drinks at the hotel. Wait! Who??

Well it happened that while I was getting into my room, they occupied the suite next door. David and his mother Nadine, were both traveling through Argentina. She happened to be working in the HR field and David is a young lad who works at JP Morgan in NYC. We chit chatted, had a glass of champagne and made plans to share travel stories over dinner at 9pm.

So after getting into town with the 5 peso bus, I was informed by the bus counter staff that there were no more buses back to the Sheraton that evening, even though I specifically asked the front desk staff to confirm that there was bus coming back from town. Naturally, I was livid as this meant that I had to spend 60-70 pesos to get back to the hotel.  So I thought to myself, “Well I’m in town, I might as well look for a nice dinner in this place …  make some lemonade from lemons” and started walking down the street looking for a place to grab a bite.

So I stopped in front this restaurant named Color Parilla Pizza and it looked nice enough, even though I was dressed like a complete backpacking bum. It was 7.30 and the restaurant looked like this.

This was a blessing in disguise as I sat at the two seater table and proceeded to decipher the menu. At that point, the manager/owner Louis comes over and starts chatting and asking where I am from and of course he was quite happy to hear the Trinidadian in Toronto story coming all the way to Puerto Iguazu for a bite. So we continue chatting and he takes me behind the grill to show me the meats and shows me the meat locker and how they store all the river fishes prior to making masterpieces of them.

So order the Bife de Chorizo, which was basically TWO huge tenderloins on his recommendation. The meat that was I had upon completion, ranks in the top 3 pieces of beef I have ever had in my life – an almost spiritual, revelatory application of fire and spice to meat with perfect aging and cooking. Upon experiencing this beef epiphany, I asked Louis to grant me a favour and allow me to use the house phone to send a message to David and Nadine.  Sure enough, I get David, we make arrangements and I spend the next hour savouring the rest of my meal, while having a couple very generous drams of Chivas Regal. All this time, there was a live singer going at his craft with some very respectable renditions adding to the overall dining pleasure.

All this time, the restaurant is packed with diners, Louis grants me another favour and moves from a 2 seater table to a 4 seater to accommodate David and Nadine. He also let me occupy the 4 seater table during a busy time that he could easily have asked me to move to accomodate the diners who had lined up. That never happened! Eventually, we all got together and had more food with tons of stories and conversation.

Now another two young ladies were eating at the table across from us, when this huge flying cockroach (it is a jungle, this happens) flew on top of the women. Of course, we all know what happened … so of course, I make a joke of it and have a couple chuckles and next thing you know, I invited the two young ladies to dine with us. So now the table had gone from 3 to 5… I was still sipping my 4th or 6th dram of Chivas.

Of course, we can’t forget our screaming lass Paloma.

Of course, dinner and conversation continues till 12.30 i.e my 5th hour at dinner, when Nadine decided to head to hotel and left David in “my care” …. additionally Louis gave us free drink pass for two other bars in the area. So Paloma, Itzy (I can’t spell her Basque name), David and myself set out looking for new places to drink. In the end, we decided to head to the Casino in the area, but it was hot and we had walked a bit, so instead we camped out at this complete local dive where we got these massive bottles of Quilmes Cristal.  By the time that all was done, it was about 2.30am and David and I still had to traipse back to the Sheraton.

All in all… one wrong bus ride turning into an amazing night of restaurant tours, new friends, good liquor and spectacular food. This is why I travel!

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