In Trinidad, we have a cliche… “Trinis like salt … cause they in eeeeeverything!” …

Sometimes I wonder what the hell I’m doing in some places myself. I’ve lived in Montreal for a couple years and I survived the great Montreal Icestorm (which really wasn’t that great … but losing electricity across the city makes you understand how pathetic and soft, normal humans are to the elements) … I thought it was pretty cool that it looked like Mr. Freeze walked through Verdun and hit us with his freeze ray.

So here in Calgary it’s cold … although not as cold as in Edmonton (where I heard it was -47C with the Wind Chill)

To give you an idea of how cold -47C is … you can do cool things like this …

This being said … what is not cool,

  • Walking three blocks from your hotel to work and experience shooting, radiating pains in your fingers in 20 seconds of exposure
  • Feeling your face freezing in mid breath
  • Deliberately jaywalking and facing oncoming traffic because walking to the corner of the street is 20  feet too far to experience
  • … oh yes, not being able to breathe – that is definitely not cool.

By the way, when I mention the walk from the hotel … this is what I mean, in terms of distance … according to Google … it’s basically 400m from door to door

So this leads to boredom and basically being stuck in front the computer … so lo and behold … searching my name leads me to find that today … I’m still the #6 Rishi out of 17.2 million search results on Google. I think this is pretty funky, when “Rishi” is like the “John” of Indian names. Although searching “The best Rishi in the world” … gets me nothing in top 500 … so I think I need to fix that.

By the way, this post has nothing to do with travel, food or anything useful except as a stream of unconsciousness … and to pat myself on the back!

 

In this being a forum for my travel writing and musings, I’ve typically avoided opinions on race/religion in Trinidad & Tobago – since there is really no simple cure for what ails Trinidad. You cannot fix in a couple months, what it took more than 40 years to build.

Thanks to Eric Williams, I’ve come to know the true long term effects of “Gerrymandering”. This is one of my two favorite words … the other being “Schadenfreude“. The case of the latter word … a significant percentage of BOTH racial demographics in Trinidad revel in the misery of the “others” here . This “significant percentage” would be the welfare class created by Mr Williams’ policies and perpetuated by multiple governments later down the line.

In the process of setting electoral districts, gerrymandering is a practice that attempts to establish a political advantage for a particular party or group by manipulating geographic boundaries to create partisan, incumbent-protected districts. The resulting district is known as a gerrymander; however, that word can also refer to the process.

Gerrymandering may be used to achieve desired electoral results for a particular party, or may be used to help or hinder a particular demographic, such as a political, racial, linguistic, religious or class group.

Further to those simple definitions … does the further extension seem any less familiar to anyone in Trinidad?

The two aims of gerrymandering are

  1. Maximize the effect of supporters’ votes
  2. Minimize the effect of opponents’ votes.

This is done using a combination of methods, but the two main strategies are packing and cracking.

  1. The idea of  packing, is to concentrate as many voters of one type into a single electoral district to reduce their influence in other districts. In some cases this may be done to obtain representation for a community of common interest, rather than to dilute that interest over several districts to a point of ineffectiveness. For anyone who lives in Trinidad – I don’t need to paint any pictures of the apparent reality of this. Consistent efforts many, many years ago were made to bring in people from other “smaller” islands to ensure that the voting would continue in a certain trend for 30+ years.

  2. A second strategy, cracking, involves spreading out voters of a particular type among many districts in order to deny them a sufficiently large voting bloc in any particular district. The strategies are typically combined, creating a few “forfeit” seats for packed voters of one type in order to secure even greater representation for voters of another type. Again, something that has been experienced in Trinidad for more than a generation.

The following map illustrates the brilliance and futility of our system. It is to scale in terms of geographic area, but it is definitely not representative of the population distribution nor projected population growth patterns in Trinidad. Note that in spite of a crushing loss – the losing party still managed to capture 29.25% of the electoral seats, yet these proportion of seats doesn’t represent 29.25% of the popular vote.

You can find more electoral maps by clicking the picture at Adam Carr's electoral archive site ...

You can find more electoral maps by clicking the picture at Adam Carr's electoral archive site ...

Taking a look at the overall stats, without any further breakdown … it works out that only with a population completely fed up with the status quo … that a change happened yet the stats show how tenuous that hold is …

  • 29.25% of the electoral seats took almost 40% of the total vote – hence a 1.36 : 1 ratio of % population to electoral seats for the losing party
  • 70% of the electoral seats took almost 60% of the total vote- hence a .87 : 1 ratio for the winning party.
NATIONAL SUMMARY OF VOTES AND SEATS
===================================================================
Votes and seats are compared with those won at the November 2007
election.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Enrolled voters:                 1,040,127
Votes cast:                        722,322  69.4
Invalid votes:                       2,595  03.6
Valid votes:                       719,727  96.4
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Party                            Votes      %     Change   Seats
-------------------------------------------------------------------
People's National Movement         285,354  39.5  -06.4    12  -14
People's Partnership Coalition     432,026  59.8  +07.5    29  +14
Others                               2,437  00.3            -
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Total                              719,727                 41
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Anyway, this is not meant to be any type of significant academic analysis on politics in Trinidad – there are tons of books for that … but a simple high level snapshot of what ails Trinidad … and why a “State of Emergency” is only a short term measure – it will not control or solve the welfare class mentality that stifles innovation in business and creates a pseudo-prison state, where people fear for their lives when the darkness drops.

 

Getting into Sri Lanka, is pretty easy although the airport is definitely nothing to write home about. So the following conversation occurs while getting into the Hilton Colombo

  • <Rishi> I can’t wait to get to the hotel, but slumming it, is the Hilton … bleck
  • <Diane> Oh stop complaining, it will be fine. We’re not going to be here for very long.
  • <Rishi> I guess the drive wasn’t too bad and there isn’t much traffic here at 1AM
  • <Diane> Yeah, it will be nice to take off my shoes, it’s been a long flight.
    <Driver turns on some side road>
  • <Rishi> What’s that crowd on the road?
  • <Diane> … <Locks doors> I think it’s some type ceremony
  • <Rishi> This late? Ah well, let’s just be safe … wait … Does that guy have something in his bare back???
  • <Diane> Holy shits roos … that guy is hanging off the ground only with hooks in his back!!!
  • <Rishi> Did we wander off into some National Geographic moment by chance … <mutters> how do we stop the car
  • <Diane> It might not be safe and although you look like the “everyman”, you don’t speak Sinhalese/Tamil
  • <Rishi> Ok fine, but I’m coming back after we drop you off!!!

So of course, in 15 mins, I organize the following things once we arrive at the hotel

  • Checks into the hotel
  • Finds ATM that will give me a couple Sri Lankan rupees
  • Negotiate a price with the driver to take me back to Thaipusam
  • Figure out a reasonable price for a whole day trip to Kandy … to see Elephants and Murali’s home stadium

So I get back to the scene of the festival, meanwhile my driver is completely confused and doesn’t really want to go back – since he thinks it’s unsafe. <Note to any traveller – normally you should follow such advice at 2am in a city, you have never been before, but life is short and when you have the opportunity to see and experience something amazing … take it!!!)

So I’m the road and explosions from huge firecrackers are going off and there is tons of smoke in the air. The combination of the smoke, moisture in the air and coming from an air conditioned car plays havoc with my cameras and I am going “apeshit”, since I can’t photograph this all (I should have just been calmer, but too much adrenaline at that point)

So I start walking with the procession and my camera isn’t really cooperating with the zoom lens.

As I learned later on Thaipusam is a Hindu festival celebrated mostly by the Tamil community when the Pusam Constellation is in its ascendancy, in the 10th month of the Hindu calendar (Thai) – it’s usually towards the end of January or the beginning of February. The festival commemorates the occasion when Parvati gave Murugan a vel (spear) so he could vanquish the evil demon Soorapadman. Murugan is the youngest son of Shiva and his wife Parvati.

At it’s most basic, the festival can be considered as a series of devotees carrying Kavadis (or burdens) to seek the favor of a god. Many of the participents can be seen doing just this, carrying offerings of milk on their heads along the procession route. It is a sort of penance, not unlike other forms of penance in other religions.

  • Carrying of the cross
  • Crucifixation reenactments

However many of the devotees take matters much further and carry highly intricate kavadi’s and many also practice temporary self mutilation by piercing the skin, tongue or cheeks with vel skewers. Hence in the videos below, the guys are hanging by hooks in their backs (thankfully they are supported by cloth to holder their full body weight)

Then I’m trying to figure how to follow the procession and not get killed on the other side of the roadway.

Honestly, Thaipusam wins hands down as the most fascinating, spectacular and colourful Hindu festival I’ve ever seen. Devotees perform amazing acts of physical resilience by skewering their bodies with an obscene amount of body piercings and unless I’m back in Malaysia or Singapore for the festival, I’ll probably never see this again.

Here are a couple other great posts on Thaipusam

 

In my first post about Borobudur, I mentioned my lack of enthusiasm for the whole “sunrise” experience. This being said, one of the main reasons for me coming to Yogyakarta, was to photograph and see Borobudur.

After the morning debacle with our guide Daniel (who you can email directly here … he is awesome, friendly and well known at Borobudur – since he works there - danielwaluyo@rocketmail.com :P ), he felt really bad about the poor sunrise, so he took us through the employee entrance (i.e. “We didn’t pay again to get in“) … VIP style. It was awesome not getting hassled or anything.

If you’ve been to a couple old temples or ruins in the world … Angkor Wat, Teotihuacan, Pompeii; one could argue that they all look alike in some way. This is remarkable when you think about places/structures that are 1000′s of years old, geographically and culturally independent and yet supposedly people never travelled around before Columbus discovered the “New World”. Think about it!

Anyway Borobudur, is pretty phenomenal in the overall context of sacred places. The structure is remarkably well maintained through grants from the Dutch government.

The bas reliefs are stunning in their detail and complexity. The reliefs show the stories based on the manuscripts of Lalitavistara, Jataka-Avadana and Gandavyuha. The Lalitavistara reliefs, consisting of 120 panels, tell us about the life of Siddhartha Gautama Buddha. It starts with the descent of Buddha from the Tushita heaven. Born as Prince Siddhartha, Buddha’s childhood was isolated from the outside world’s misery. Accidentally witnessing the misery of sickness, decrepitude and death, young Prince Siddharta decided to escape from the worldly life and commencing his search of freedom from suffering. Siddhartha’s long and painful search finally led him to the highest level of enlightenment and made him Buddha, the Enlightened One. This story ends with Buddha’s sermon in the Deer Park near Benares.

Even the floor is a jigsaw puzzle all put together without cement/mortar/plaster – each section with its own keystone that unlocks the floor for cleaning. Daniel was also clear to mention that under the floors, there are a lot of snakes.

At the top, there are, 72 stupas circle the huge main stupa that crowns the top of the temple. The circular form represents the eternity without beginning and without end, a superlative, tranquil, and pure state of the formless world. There are no reliefs on the three circular terraces.

All but the largest central stupas on the upper levels contain a (more or less) life-sized statue of the Buddha kneeling, although many of these statues are missing or damaged. There are also many alcoves along the lower levels which contain similar statues but many of these are missing or damaged as well.

5 Essential Details for seeing Borobudur and being happy about it

  1. The lighting is best for photography around 2pm – the harsh overhead sunlight at noon make pictures taking tough
  2. Read about the structure, the history and the details of the reliefs. It will put a lot of the structure in perspective.
  3. Find a reliable guide to take you around and explain the history of Borobudur. Getting from Yogyakarta to Borobudur takes an hour by car. Vehicles with a driver can easily arranged for about $30 a day.
  4. Plan to climb some steps. Stop a while, take some pictures and enjoy the daytime view
  5. It should take about 2 hours to walk the grounds and take pictures.

Video

 

A couple misconceptions I had before I got to Yogyakarta … since I think every preconceived idea of Indonesia has been shattered with my arrival into Yogyakarta.

  1. Yogyakarta is some dusty temple town that will be easy to get around.
    FALSE : “Yogya” is pretty god damn big and you will need a driver to get around.
  2. Since Yogya is a small town, I will be able to saunter into town, see 10 main attractions in 3 days and leave full satiated never wanting to come back
    FALSE : There is so much around Yogya, that one could spend two weeks here and still not see everything around and all the cultural shows
  3. Prambanan would be some small temple that can be done in an hour
    FALSE : If you only visit the main temple, then sure. If you visit the entire complex and surrounding smaller temples and ruins, then you will easily spend a full exhausting 10 hr day in the heat walking around with no pool time :D
  4. There would be ridiculously spotty technology here and I wouldn’t be able to do anything I needed.
    FALSE : See #2 … there are about  700,000 people. The city is broken up into 14 districts and there is all the technology and connectivity you need.
  5. Thailand/Philippines have the craziest drivers in the world.
    FALSE : Patently and utterly false. Indonesia now truly tops my list of world’s most insane driving. The only thing that is even remotely followed, would be street lights (and they are optional at late night). The only thing that even comes close to what we experienced driving here, would be the following clips from the 1981 Sega smash hit video game : Turbo. (Yes, I played this game in something called an “Arcade” – I am officially once again … OLD)

Now this being said, getting from my hotel (Sheraton Mustika) to Prambanan was a easy 15 minute taxi ride. You get into the parking lot, walk to the tourist entrance and you’re in. Simple and easy!

I would suggest that you do some requisite reading about the place before, since the tourist information is lacking in much detail. There are tons of explanations of the Siva, Vishnu and Brahma temples.I also would start at the Sewu temple about 1km away walking in the complex and then work your way back to the main temples.

Once you’re finished with the Sewu temple which is pretty impressive, then you’re backtracking past the smaller ruins into Prambanan itself.

5 Essential Details for a Prambanan Hindu Temple day trip

  1. You should really stay in Yogyakarta. It is a easy day trip from here and there are multiple daily flights from Jakarta (CKG) to Yogyakarta (JOG) … if you’re looking to rush it.
  2. The foreigner entry price is 13$ USD … which is steep, if you’re a backpacker – but assume that your money is going to help the conservation effort. (That’s what I would like to think)
  3. Find a reliable driver that will take you around. A good tourist price that will make you feel good about yourself, is paying 3.50$USD an hour (30000 rupiah). This will include gas, vehicle and the driver’s time.
  4. 9am would be a reasonable time to head in. It’s not too hot and the tour buses haven’t started coming in.
  5. 3 hour for the entire complex would be quite realistic, although you could completely power through the thing in 1 hour, but if you did do that, then you should question why you’re actually going in the first place.

You want to learn about Prambanan …

My photolog …

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